Animal Based Leather, Vegan Leather, or Pre-Loved Options?

Leather, a timeless material, sparks debate about sustainability. Is genuine leather the champion of longevity, or do vegan alternatives offer a greener path?

Myth #1: Real Leather is Always Unsustainable.

While the leather industry has environmental concerns, responsible sourcing and good animal husbandry practices can mitigate some issues.

Myth #2: Vegan Leather is Eco-Friendly.

Many vegan leathers are plastic-based, raising concerns about resource use, microplastics, and disposal challenges. Sustainable plant-based alternatives are emerging, but their long-term environmental impact is still under evaluation.

Myth #3: Pre-Loved Leather is Not Worth Considering.

Second-hand leather goods offer a sustainable option, reducing reliance on new leather production and extending a product's lifespan.

Myth #4: There's a Clear Winner.

The most sustainable option depends on various factors, including the lifespan of the product, production methods, and personal preferences.

Beyond the Myths: Unveiling the Environmental Footprint

Let's delve into the environmental impact of animal based leather, vegan leather, and pre-loved leather options:

Animal Based Leather:

• Benefits: Durable and long-lasting, develops a beautiful patina over time, naturally breathable.

• Challenges: Leather production uses water, chemicals, and energy. The tanning process can generate pollutants if not well-managed. Animal agriculture raises concerns about deforestation, methane emissions, and animal welfare. However, as long as people are eating cows, not using the hides and other parts is a waste as well.

• Environmental Impact: High water usage, potential for pollution from tanning, deforestation and greenhouse gas emissions associated with animal agriculture. Choosing ethically sourced leather can minimize some concerns. Turning animals’ skin into leather requires loads of energy and a slew of chemicals—including chromium, mineral salts, coal-tar derivatives, formaldehyde, oils, dyes, and finishes, some of them cyanide-based.

Vegan Leather:

• Benefits: Often considered cruelty-free, some options are made from recycled materials. Sustainable vegan leather can be made from many plant-based materials, including pineapple leaves (Pinatex), cactus (Desserto leather), cork, mushrooms, coconut husks, kombucha scobies, mango, seaweed, apple peels, and even bacteria! Pinatex is made from pineapple waste. A pineapple plant only flowers and produces a fruit once, so its stem and leaves are usually wasted.

• Challenges: Vegan leather is made from anything that does not come from an animal, but serves the same purpose as leather. It generally looks and feels the same too. The trouble is, vegan leather is most often made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane which is often fossil fuel based.

  Many vegan leathers are plastic-based, contributing to reliance on fossil fuels and potential microplastic pollution. Durability can be lower compared to real leather. Sustainable plant-based alternatives are evolving but require further assessment. When these break down they become microplastics, polluting our waterways and the fish in them.

• Environmental Impact: Resource use for plastic production, potential for microplastic pollution during use and disposal. Sustainable plant-based options might offer a lower environmental impact, but research is ongoing.

Pre-Loved Leather:

• Benefits: Extends the life cycle of existing leather products, reduces demand for new leather production, often more affordable. Second-hand leather items supports the principles of reduce, reuse, and recycle. By purchasing pre-owned leather goods, consumers are extending the lifecycle of these products. They are preventing them from ending up in landfills. The nice thing is that you can keep repurposing - a belt becomes a shoulder strap for a purse. An old vest becomes a belt or purse. Use your creativity!

• Challenges: Quality and condition can vary, may require minor repairs or restoration.

• Environmental Impact: Minimizes reliance on virgin materials and production processes associated with new leather.

Considering Production Methods, Material Types, and Durability

• Production Methods: Choose leather tanned with vegetable-based methods instead of harsh chemicals. Opt for vegan leather made from recycled materials when possible.

• Material Types: Explore sustainable plant-based alternatives for vegan leather as they become more established.

• Durability: Prioritize quality and longevity in any leather product, real or vegan. Proper care extends the lifespan of leather goods.

Ethical Considerations and the Future of Leather

• Animal Welfare: Support brands committed to ethical sourcing practices and responsible animal husbandry for real leather products.

• Innovation: Developments in plant-based and other sustainable alternatives for vegan leather offer promise for the future.

• Circular Economy: Fostering a circular economy where pre-loved leather goods are valued and readily available is crucial.

Ranking Leather Options for Sustainability

• Accuracy: The claim that one type of leather is inherently more sustainable is inaccurate. Consider production methods, material source, and lifespan of the product.

• Durability: Opt for high-quality, long-lasting leather items, real or vegan. Proper care extends lifespan.

• Ethics: Choose ethically sourced real leather or cruelty-free vegan options.

• Impact on Climate Change: Prioritize pre-loved leather, then consider real leather with responsible sourcing and tanning practices. Sustainable plant-based vegan leather might be an option in the future, but research is ongoing.

Overall: There's no single perfect answer. Pre-loved leather offers a low environmental footprint. Responsible real leather production with ethical sourcing and vegetable tanning minimizes environmental impact. Sustainable plant-based vegan leather holds promise, but research is still needed. By prioritizing quality, durability, and responsible manufacturing practices, we can make informed choices for a more sustainable future of fashion, regardless of the "leather" we choose.

Further Resources:

• The Sustainable Apparel Coalition: https://cascale.org/about-us/who-we-are/

• The Leather Working Group: https://www.leatherworkinggroup.com/

• Designers using vegan leather: Stella McCartney, Corkor, roandco, Pixie Mood, Urban Expressions, Eve Cork, GUNAS New York